In Istanbul

Research wasn't going well in Afghanistan and I decided to cut my losses and come to Turkey. On a more basic level I decided I just didn't want to be there, always feeling under siege even if nothing big and scary was happening. I flew out of Afghanistan via Dubai and spent a few hours between flights liking the place for the first time. People of different genders and colors and languages all walking around (I got luckier this than last time in my random choice of neighborhoods to walk around--I ended up in Al Karama, an area with lots of pedestrians and Indian restaurants and not enough money to make me feel awkward) not bothering each other, clean streets, guns and body armor not ubiquitious...it was a nice change. I played Gears of War on an electronics store Xbox while a little boy watched and then tried to unsubtly suggest it was his turn by leaning against my leg and then standing between me and the TV. Then I went to a South Indian restaurant and followed my dosa with their specially fulooda to meet the credit card minimum.

I think I am done with a certain danger-seeking part of my life. Sorry Afghanistan, I tried but just don't love you don't want to live in you.

Anyway I am in Istanbul and it is wonderful and clean and friendly with well-cared-for street animals. I went to a jiu jitsu class last night and got my ass kicked. Maybe the nicest thing was that I wasn't treated as either novelty or special needs student in the class--Oh, you're from the US? cool. You understood the instructions, right? cool. And then they could get on with kicking my ass. The purple belt I first paired with submitted me at least 8 times in a row in a 5 minute perio with the ankle lock that is--if I have one--my own signature move.