The best kebab I've had yet in Afghanistan:
Money market. The guys up on the balcony haggling with the guys below over ever-changing exchange rates.
The guys with the pimped out Pakistani taxi on the left were good enough to help us fix a flat. I looked and couldn't find a non-Toyota out of hundreds of cars parked along the river.
Back in 2008 a professor who'd spent years in Afghanistan commented to out class that it was a disgrace that nothing had been done to clean up the Kabul river hadn't after 6 years of foreign aid. Now it's been 10 and it still looks and smells like a cesspool. My friend who was guiding me around said that the people working at the bazaar have nowhere else to use for a latrine since there are no public toilets to be found and they're stuck there all day.
Of course as a former USAID employee (who was very critical of her past employer) pointed out, Kabulis don't seem to remember that there didn't used to be near constant electricity or perfect cell phone reception.
I'm amazed I haven't had any stomach problems yet in Kabul, especially after drinking a glass of the roadside ground sugar cane juice being made below from a communal roadside glass.
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