Thursday, June 23, 2016

Pups Lives!


Our favorite animal in our residential complex is a grumpy old dog we call Pups for lack of creativity. He would always be sunbathing or lying in the shade under cars in front of our building during the day. The first time he met each of us he barked but them after realizing we would scratch his head and stomach become calmly friendly, always trotting up with wagging tail and sniffing around any shopping bags we might be carrying to check if there was anything for him. Other neighbors seemed to like him as well, stopping their cars beside him to roll down their windows and scratch his head, asking How are you, my son? He was wholly harmless; the only physical altercation he got into in front of us was with a crazy-ass cat who sent him away yelping.
At night, though, he turn vigilante and enjoyed hiding in the bushes and then howling at anyone who passed by after curfew. Evidently this pissed off enough neighbors that one day last week, I heard him yelping and looked out the window to see two men in municipality polo shirts trying to get him out from under a car and into a grey hearse-like vehicle using one of those lasso-ended poles. He managed to give them the slip and run off just as a lady from my building came out asking what was going on, what were they doing. One of the men ignored her entirely and got behind the wheel of the hearse to drive it around to the other side of the complex; the other, left on foot to walk in the direction Pups had fled, just said brusquely that the neighbors complained and they didn't want to do this either but they had to. A little while later the hearse drove back past and out of the complex.
I asked the unhelpful complex security guard and then the very helpful employees of the mini market inside the complex if there was anything I could do to get him back and would they kill him. They laughed and said no, the neighbors had been complaining about his night howls so they'll just give him vaccinations (he had a tag on his ear already, but evidently old) and something to calm him down (??) and then bring him back.
My girlfriend was skeptical of this claim, and the fact that the phone numbers for the possibly Orwellianly-named municipal "Street Animal Rehabilitation Center" were not functional, along with news of police killing beloved street dogs for no reason in a nearby neighborhood, did nothing to allay concerns. The men from the municipality showed up a few days later together with a vet for something else and I asked them what became of the dog. As brusquely as usual, they told me that they hadn't caught him, he'd escaped. Then why haven't I seen him since the day you came? I asked, and they didn't bother to answer. I asked the super after a few more days of no Pups and he said yes the municipality took him but they just gave him vaccines and dropped him back off. He was back in the neighborhood, just hanging out behind the building nowadays but he would come back out front.
Why the contradictory stories? Was everybody lying in that weird Middle Eastern way where people think that they are softening the blow of a death by just denying it happened?
That was what I thought until last night when I heard a familiar howl from the woods behind the building. The area is inaccessibly fenced off, a shared backyard for the neighbors living on the ground floor, and in the dark and through the tree cover I couldn't see anything.
But then tonight, another howl and then, from our balcony, we watched as Pups came trotting over like nothing had happened to a neighbor's back door to where she (probably a she) had moved his food bowls, which used to be out front.
My theory is that Pups did indeed get away from the municipality and then our neighbor took him into her back yard to hide him from the Man and put a collar on him for good measure to show he wasn't a street animal that they had jurisdiction over. The super must have seen the municipality vehicle come and then seen Pups a few days later and figured they had caught then released him. My faith in the neighborhood is restored.
It would be nice if he could come out front so we could play with him again, but I suppose better that he is protected from the street animal gestapo. Maybe I will go downstairs and introduce myself to the neighbor and ask if we can go into her back yard to play with Pups. Play is a strong word--unfortunately he has no idea how to play fetch or inclination to chase flying object, but we could go give him a scratching.


Thursday, June 9, 2016

Croatia wrap-up


We are back in Istanbul. For a pure baking-on-the-beach-and-exploring vacation experience Dubrovnik might be my favorite place I've ever visited. For starters there were no jellyfisgh and virtually no mosquitos and the tap water is potable.



The food was mostly excellent: my favorite was "the cheerful Bosnian," a rumpsteak wrapped in a tube around vegetables in a creamy sauce that I ate at a Bosnian restaurant improbably named Taj Mahal. The seafood was also good, though these whole prawns were a bit advanced for me, particularly the one that oozed black goo from its midsection, I now know a sign of being not so fresh.


Our favorite place was Lokrum Island, a short boat ride from the medieval walled city center. The city center and beaches near the ferry landing were very crowded with tourists, but everywhere in the city and on the island we went, just a few minutes walk and we would find ourselves completely alone. The perfect swimming cove we kept returning to, and mostly had all to ourselves:



Lokrum is heavily populated by peacocks and rabbits, though they seem despite drawing tourist love to be officially ignored as pests rather than attractions. Nowhere in pamphlets and guides are peacocks mentioned.






Notice anything missing from this guide to the city's birds found on the island?



When we tired of swimming and hiking and sunbaking, there was a half-build monastery on Lokrum with an airy cafe inside where we could play cards. When hungry, we picnicked on Alice in Wonderland Mad Hatter Tea Party-style carved wooden chairs and table. They were all cut from a very aromatic wood that smelled halfway between pine and cedar.




Thursday, June 2, 2016

Dubrovnik

We are in Dubrovnik, Croatia for a little vacation and visa refresher. You may recognize the old city as King's Landing in Game of Thrones. The show seems to have been a great boost to the city's tourism, as there are film location tours and souvenirs everywhere and I've already spotted Jon Snow and Tyrion Lannister wax sculptures in shops.



Dinner of Dalmatian smoked ham and risotto stained black with cuddlefish ink.


The photo below is from the very nationalist Homeland War museum atop the ridge that overlooks the city. Dubrovnik was under siege by Yugoslav National Army in 1991 and 1992 in what they also call the War of Independence or War of Serbian and Montenegrin Aggression. The museum, a fort built by Napoleon's marshall in 1806-1812 that then served as a stronghold in the 1991 defense of the city (not the bullet marks behind me), has room after room of weapons from the war of independence and photos of Croatian soldiers looking brave (a disturbing number of them with a weapon in one hand and a beer toasting the camera in the other) and old ladies looking sad and the city's buildings and boats burning.


When we first arrived the weather was a perfect 80 degrees sunny and we were looking forward to just baking on the beach, but yesterday was rainy and cool and today looks to be the same, so it will be more culture tourism and soggy hiking until the sun returns.